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      Christophe Dumarest

    Christophe is well known for his hard and committing ascents around the world, with decades of new routes and hard repeats to his name.

    About Christophe

    Christophe was ‘born in a backpack’ in Annecy, France. He was skiing by 2 years old and climbing 4000m peaks before he was 10. Mentored in the mountains and the skills of Alpinism by his family, he eventually progressed to regional and national French climbing teams before qualifying as a UIAGM Guide in 2009. He continues to guide extensively now, specialising in the Alps’ Grand Courses and technical routes.

    Christophe is well known for his hard and committing ascents around the world. Decades of new routes and hard repeats in the Alps include ‘Heidi’ on the Grandes Jorasses and a near onsight of ‘Divine Providence’ on Mont Blanc. He has climbed countless equally hard lines further afield, everywhere from Alaska to the Andes, Greenland and the Himalaya, including the much sought-after ‘Eternal Flame’ on Trango Tower in the Karakoram and ‘Chercheur d’Absolu’ on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

    Today, with the aim of reducing his environmental impact, he is focusing on what has become his signature: alpine link-ups. These are multi-day journeys, far removed from the constraints of meters and seconds, and instead centered on the logic of the terrain, geological and historical continuity, or simply a poetic reinterpretation of a map or a landscape. Some of these adventures have led to films such as “Le Méridien des Écrins,” “Sur le fil de l’amitié,” “Inside,” and “La Voie Bonatti.”

    Christophe Dumarest

    The routes that mean the most

    “Eternal Flame” (6,286 m), with the Petit family. Trango Nameless Tower / Pakistan

    Arriving last at base camp, we ultimately became the first team to reach the summit. An ascent that felt like moving through a dream.

    “Heidi” (4,208 m), with P. Batoux and P. Gabarrou. North Face of the Grandes Jorasses

    Being able to open a new route on this face, one that is deeply meaningful to me (twelve different routes climbed), and in my view, the most mythical wall in the Alps, was a true privilege.

    Cruz del Sur, Cordillera Blanca, La Esfinge 5325m (Silvo Karo, Mauro “Bubu” Bole), completed with A. Clouet / D. Jourdain

    My first expedition, the one that leaves a lasting mark and lifelong memories. Cruz del Sur, a logical and aesthetic route perched at 5,300 meters, which unfortunately earned me the onset of pulmonary edema.

    “Chercheur d’Absolu” (3,359 m), with A. Clouet. Chaltén (Fitz Roy) / Patagonia

    The opening of a fine alternative start to the Afanassieff route, 54 hours on the go and a short, but unforgettable bivy on the summit, followed by an epic descent.

    “Le Privilège du Renard”, with A. Rolle. Fox Jaws / Greenland

    Opening a route is a chance to create, an opportunity to express oneself fully. Though not the longest climb in Greenland, this line is a little gem and, inevitably, a treasured memory.

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    Christophe Dumarest

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