Glove Guide | How to choose the right gloves

The main difference between gloves and mittens is dexterity. Gloves offer much more dexterity, while mittens keep your fingers together, providing greater warmth.

Your choice between the two depends on your needs. If you need to perform complex tasks, like tying knots, gloves are the better option. However, if you are sitting at a belay or going for a walk in the valley, mittens could be a suitable choice.

Warmer isn't always better. Where you are going and what you are doing will affect how warm your gloves need to be. The goal is to keep your hands comfortable, not just hot. Gloves that are too warm can cause your hands to overheat and sweat, leading to damp gloves that won’t perform well. That’s why it’s a good idea to carry both a thin pair and a thick pair of gloves.

In general, thicker gloves provide more warmth than thinner ones, and mittens tend to be even warmer. Lightweight gloves are usually adequate when you’re working hard, even in cold conditions. However, you might prefer warmer gloves if you are moving slowly, have poor circulation, or if it’s extremely cold outside.

Waterproof gloves aren't necessarily better than non-waterproof ones. Even if a glove is waterproof, water or snow can still enter through the cuff or when you put the glove on with wet hands. When choosing gloves, consider the conditions you will be in.

While waterproof gloves do keep water out, which helps keep your hands warm, they can also be less breathable and take longer to dry.

On the other hand, gloves without a waterproof membrane may become damp in wet conditions, but they typically dry quickly and some people appreciate their simplicity. However, if your hands get wet, they are likely to become cold.

When selecting gloves and mitts, it's important to consider the specific features that suit your activities and the conditions you'll be in. Look for durable shell fabrics that can withstand weather and abrasion. Additionally, consider the lining and insulation. Materials like fibre pile and fleece offer various benefits in terms of grip, warmth, dexterity, and drying speed, while heavier synthetic insulation or down provides maximum warmth.

If durability and grip are important to you, leather reinforcements can significantly enhance toughness, weather resistance, and dexterity. Also, pay attention to cuff closures: low-bulk cuffs are lighter and more streamlined, while gauntlet-style cuffs are easier to put on and help keep snow out when worn over jacket sleeves.

Don't overlook the small details. Nose wipes made from reversed suede leather are soft, comfortable, and durable. Finally, features like carabiner carry loops allow you to clip your gloves to a harness or pack for convenience.

A glove system involves using multiple pairs of gloves or mitts throughout the day to accommodate changing activity levels, weather conditions, and warmth requirements. No single glove can manage every situation, so alternating between different types helps keep your hands dry, warm, and functional.

For example, during a typical day out, you might start with thin gloves for high-output hiking or the approach. As temperatures drop, you would switch to thicker insulated gloves. If those gloves get wet, you might replace them with another warm pair. For a technical climbing pitch, you could choose a more dexterous pair, and at the summit, you might finish with mitts for maximum warmth. It's common to use several pairs in one outing.

Whether you need a glove system depends on your specific conditions and comfort levels, but many people find it essential. Some combine liner gloves with heavier gloves or mitts, while others add over-mitts when belaying. Some simply rotate through pairs as needed. The key principles are straightforward: switch gloves before your hands get cold, and bring more pairs than you think you'll need.