The jacket was originally developed for the ascent of the Annapurna South Face in 1970. At that time, the 3,000-meter-high south face was considered an almost impregnable barrier. Never before had such a large wall been climbed. To put it in perspective, it is roughly equivalent to the north face of the Eiger, but stacked twice on top of each other, with the summit reaching over 8,000 meters. The challenges presented by this climb had never been faced at such a height.
Under the leadership of Chris Bonington, a team of the best climbers from the UK and the USA came together to tackle the Annapurna South Face. After weeks of struggle and remarkable teamwork, Dougal Haston and Don Whillans achieved the remarkable feat of climbing one of the greatest routes in the Himalayas.
A postcard from Nepal, written by Chris Bonington, was addressed to Pete Hutchinson, the founder of Mountain Equipment, who had developed the essential gear for this expedition, including the legendary Annapurna down jacket. Since its introduction, the jacket has been continuously improved and is now used by mountaineers on numerous expeditions.
What is special about the Annapurna Jacket?
Insulation for extreme conditions
The Annapurna jacket is renowned for its excellent insulation capabilities. Featuring high-quality down filling and box-wall construction, it delivers exceptional thermal performance, keeping you warm and comfortable even in the coldest temperatures. The elasticated seams provide great freedom of movement, while the snug fit around the body helps prevent cold spots. Additionally, the jacket offers optimal protection for the neck area, as a down-filled thermal collar wraps around the neck like a scarf, effectively trapping heat and preventing it from escaping.
Robust and weatherproof outer fabrics
The outer material of an expedition jacket is crucial for its performance, alongside insulation. The Annapurna Jacket is has DRILITE® Loft 40D outer fabric, which is both water-resistant and windproof, ensuring you stay protected during snowfall and strong winds. Additionally, this material is exceptionally durable and abrasion-resistant, making the jacket ideal for harsh mountain conditions.
The Polarloft synthetic fiber insulation used in the shoulders and forearms helps minimize excessive compression from heavy gear. It also offers added wind protection and helps prevent heat loss.
Small details to maximise comfort
The Annapurna jacket is designed with careful attention to detail. Its adjustable, helmet-compatible hood offers reliable protection from the elements. The jacket features several practical pockets, including two soft fleece outer pockets that quickly warm cold hands.
Inside, spacious pockets provide ample room for important items like smartphones or batteries that need to be kept warm. There's even enough space for an extra pair of gloves or a water bottle.
For a perfect fit, the jacket includes adjustable cuffs and a hem that can be customized. The drawstrings at the hem can be easily operated with one hand.
Rediscovered after 30 years: an Annapurna Jacket from the 90s.
Katharina Huber, a current member of the women's team of the DAV Expedkader, and her family have owned a Mountain Equipment Annapurna Jacket for over 30 years.
Katharina shares the story of her jacket’s long journey:
"The jacket is older than I am; my mom bought it in the spring of 1994 when Mountain Equipment was still relatively unknown in Germany. That summer, she spent five weeks in Canada with her mountain bike and tent. My mom believed the jacket was perfect for keeping warm during chilly evenings in the tent, on the glacier, and in the mountains.
At that time, the style was still wide and long, which means this jacket provides excellent coverage and warmth over the back. The hood fits perfectly as well. The GORE-TEX jacket from Mountain Equipment was also included as a combination for wet conditions."
"In the following years, she always wore the jacket on ski tours, while serving mulled wine at the rather chilly Christmas market in Tegernsee, or after a winter dive. Eventually, the jacket became useful for us kids as well; its warm, wide-cut design allowed plenty of room inside the jacket for another child in a sling, keeping the baby's feet nicely wrapped up.
When my brother and I were learning to ski, my little sister would be tucked under the jacket while we skied. The jacket later disappeared into the cellar for many years, but a few years ago, my sister and I rediscovered it and learned to love it once again."
"The jacket was with my sister in Norway in 2021 and proved to be the perfect item for warming up, especially after ice swimming. I love having it with me when I’m out and about, whether I’m sport climbing in winter or for cold mornings and evenings while camping. It's just super warm; I didn’t freeze even while ice climbing in the Dolomites. During our travels by car, without a heater, the jacket was worth its weight in gold.
I really like how spacious it is; I can wear it over all my other layers. When climbing, I just pass it to the belayer, and they’ve always appreciated it. Its long cut ensures my bottom stays warm too. The colors are modern, and the hood fits well over a helmet, but it also fits snugly without one, keeping me warm.
The fleece jacket pockets are a favorite feature of mine—they're wonderfully cozy for warming up ice-cold hands. The only slight downside is that the pockets are open and don't have zippers, so I have to be cautious not to lose anything when I put items in them (a problem that's been fixed on the modern version of the jacket).
This jacket has been part of some great adventures, but it truly feels like a family jacket that hasn’t lost its functionality even after 30 years! My mom says the money was a real investment, but as you can see, it's pretty sustainable!"
Kathi's jacket was recently given a well-deserved professional wash by our Wash & Repair Service.
Looking after your kit with regular washing and maintenance is a great way to keep your jacket going for longer. Maybe your jacket will have stories like Kathi's in 30 years?
About Kathi
Katharina "Kathi" Huber is a member of the DAV Women's Expedition Squad for the years 2024 to 2026.
Kathi grew up in Tegernsee and currently resides in Visp, Switzerland. From an early age, she explored the local mountains with her parents on foot, on skis or by bike. Kathi enhanced her skills in sport climbing through her training as a coach at the DAV (German Alpine Club) and ventured into alpine terrain for the first time.
In addition to her pursuits as a climber and alpinist, Kathi is also a junior doctor.
The Annapurna Jacket is the ideal choice for anyone who refuses to let extreme winter conditions disrupt their adventures. With exceptional thermal performance, durable materials, and thoughtfully designed features, this jacket has everything an alpinist could desire. Whether you're preparing for a challenging mountain tour or expedition, or simply want to stay warm and safe throughout the winter, the Annapurna jacket is your dependable companion.