Young Alpinist Group 2026-2028

The Young Alpinist Group aims to improve the safety and knowledge of UK-based alpine climbers over a three-year programme. Through regular trips, training, expeditions, and mentorship from older climbers, the 10 group members develop their skills and experience with a view to climbing in alpine style in the Greater Ranges.

In April 2026, eight members of the new intake for the 2026–2028 Young Alpinist Group gathered in Chamonix for a 12-day meet. The focus on building partnerships and developing solid alpine judgement.

Founded by Tom Livingstone in 2020, the YAG aims to develop the next generation of UK alpinists, not just by climbing hard, but by building solid partnerships and good judgement in serious terrain. This first trip set the tone: get to know each other, climb together, and start establishing the kind of trust that matters when things get a bit more committed than expected. 

Day 1 (20th April) – Arrival, introductions, and mild logistical chaos

With support from Polly Harmer and Will Harris, the team covered avalanche awareness, crevasse rescue, and “alpine sense” before putting it into practice at Grands Montets. A stop at Big Mountain Brewing Company and an evening with Paul Ramsden rounded off a strong start to the trip.

Day 2 (21st April) – Team scatters

With the training boxes ticked, the group split in classic alpine fashion. Elin headed back up to Grands Montets to build ski mileage; no small task given she’s only been on skis for a handful of days in total, now confidently taking it off piste. The rest took the first lift on the Aiguille du Midi, Mike and James M made their way to Pointe Lachenal, climbing M6 Solar, while Ryu and Louis opted for the Chèré Couloir on the Tacul, both teams wrapping things up with the obligatory ski down the Vallée Blanche, equal parts scenic and survival skiing depending on who you asked. Tom L and Iain headed to heading onto the Carli–Chassangne on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. Moving fast and light, they made short work of it, with Iain setting a pace that suggested he’d either done it before or simply had no interest in hanging around. Tom followed efficiently behind, in what could best be described as an extended threshold effort. The day wrapped up with an evening talk from Viktor Saunders, who spoke about risk awareness in the mountains - offering the kind of insight that makes you quietly reassess your decision-making, in the future and for the days ahead.

Day 3 (22nd April) - The Tacul and coffee-fuelled alternatives

Attention turned to the east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, where multiple teams headed for steeper ground and bigger objectives. Iain and Mike climbed the Modica-Noury. Nearby, Tom Livingstone and James M took on Les Temps est Assassin on the Triangle - technical, sustained, and a good test. Louis teamed up with Paul Ramsden for a slightly more committing outing, climbing the Gabarrou–Albinoni before settling in for a bivvy on the glacier beneath the Supercouloir - a strategic position, assuming you enjoy sleeping on ice and starting early. The plan: climb it the following day. Meanwhile, Ryu and Elin took a different but no less serious approach at Grands Montets - ski touring, off-piste laps, and what can only be described as a highly committed coffee-drinking schedule. A strong alternative interpretation of “alpine training.”

Day 4 (23rd April) – Speed record on the Mallory, long alpine days and a super retreat

Another big day on the hill, with a full spectrum of alpine approaches on display. Ryu and Iain set the tone early, heading for the Mallory–Porter on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi and dispatching the 1000m+ route in roughly three hours, less a climb, more a very committed cardio session. James M and Mike went in the opposite direction, opting for the Lagarde Couloir Direct, long, steep, and not particularly forgiving. Clocking in at around 18 hours car-to-car, it was a proper day out: the kind where nutrition plans dissolve, calves stop negotiating, and “nearly there” becomes a flexible concept. Louis and Paul Ramsden took on the ambitious Super Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul, approaching via the rock pitches of the Gervasutti Pillar before entering the upper gully. Conditions, however, were less than inspiring. Thin ice, unconsolidated snow, and just enough uncertainty to keep things interesting for all the wrong reasons. At one point, a fighter jet roared overhead, Paul shat himself and had to momentarily brace himself for what he could only assume was a large chunk of mountain about to arrive unannounced on his head. A sensible retreat followed, and the pair skied out via the Vallée Blanche.

Day 5 (24th April) – Ski school: where skiers go to get humbled

The whole team headed out to Grands Montets for a ski-focused training day, with Iain and Mike taking the lead. Iain, a highly experienced ski mountaineer, ran sessions for the more advanced group up on the Argentière Glacier, focusing on movement efficiency and decision-making on steep terrain. Mike, drawing on several seasons as a ski instructor in Canada, worked with the less experienced or competent group both on and off piste, covering fundamental ski technique and control.

Day 6 (25th April) - a first, a fast, and a classic taste of Alpine winter

James K and Tom L climbed the Lagarde on Les Droites, approaching and bivvying beneath the route the previous day after ski school. Despite arriving in Chamonix straight from sea level, James made a strong first outing. An impressive introduction to a Chamonix interpretation of “acclimatisation.” Elin and Aimee climbed the Cosmiques Arête as a steady introduction to alpine winter climbing for Aimee, focusing on movement and systems in an iconic and exposed terrain.

Day 7 (26th April) – all routes lead down (some faster than others)

Mike, Iain and Ryu climbed the Goulotte Col de Plan on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi, continuing efficient movement on classic north face ground. Ryu and Iain then paraglided from the summit, while Mike opted for a solo send of the Cosmiques Arête and the midi lift down. James and Elin skied the Vallée Noire, with Elin successfully completing her objective of skiing the Vallée Blanche after less than two weeks on skis, a strong milestone. Louis and Aimee climbed the classic Rébuffat–Baquet on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi, rounding off a varied day across the range of alpine disciplines. James M and James Price (ex YAG) climbed an impressive line called the Voie Charlet on the Aiguille de Leschaux, linking together a long and committing outing to the summit. The round trip from hut to valley took 27 hours, with the James M arriving back at the chalet at around 08:00 just in time for coffee, breakfast and a seamless transition straight into the mountain medicine course, as if sleep deprivation was part of the syllabus.

Day 8 (27th April) – mountain medicine, trauma drills, and the reality check

The team took a break from climbing to attend a mountain medicine course led by Owen Samuel (IBEX First Aid) and Dr Dave Hillebrandt, kindly funded by William Newson. The focus shifted firmly from movement and objectives to what to do when things go wrong, covering trauma management, altitude-related illness, and a surprisingly in-depth look at the drugs needed and a pharmacology lecture. In the evening, we had dinner and drinks at the Chalet with the French young alpinist Group (GEAN).

Day 9 (28th April) – Dry tooling, changing seasons and watching the forecast

Mike and Tom L headed onto the Tacul with the vision of climbing E Logic, but drifted left into unclimbed ground and ended up piecing together what was a new mixed line around the M7+ grade. Over on Vent du Dragon, James M and James K found thin and awkward conditions, with the route already feeling more late-spring than alpine conditions- dry rock, patchy ice, and careful pick placements. Lower down, Louis, Elin and Amiee made the most of the final bright day with a tour on the Argentière Glacier before the weather turned. With the forecast promising fresh snow and a run of poor conditions, the team regrouped to reassess plans for the rest of the trip.

Day 10, 11 & 12 (29th, 30th April & 1st May) – Bailing, shifting objectives and wrapping up the trip

With unsettled weather and challenging conditions, teams adapted plans and abandoned some or made the best of the better conditions in the valley. Mike headed out of Chamonix for Switzerland, climbed Route 1938 on the Eiger, while Amiee and Louis headed to Barberine for some multi-pitch sport climbing, ticking Sylvie Phobie. As the final days of the trip approached, the group gathered to pack their kit, reflect on the trip, and squeeze in a few more beers and pizza in Big Mountain Brew before heading home.

Words by Elin Owens

The 2026-2028 Young Alpinists are: Louis Kennedy, James Milton, James Kelly, Poppy Hole, Aimee Hogg, Elin Owens, Tom de Csillery, Iain Innes, Ry Phillips, and Mike Hastings.

YAG are also supported by: The Mount Everest Foundation, the Alpine Club, the British Mountaineering Council, Petzl, La Sportiva, and William Newsom.