Ice Climbing in the Ecrins | Katie Keeley

Katie Keeley has returned to a familiar area of the Alps, this time looking to explore what the Écrins National Park has to offer in winter conditions.

Over the past few weeks, I’ve been tucked away in the wild heart of Écrins National Park, immersing myself once more into a world of ice climbing and ski touring. Having explored many of the region’s rock routes over previous summers, I’d long wanted to return to this rugged corner of the French Alps in full winter conditions when the mountains look their most spectacular, but are undeniably more serious and intimidating.

We began gently in Cervières, easing ourselves back into the rhythm of swinging tools again. A handful of single pitches provided the perfect reintroduction: Aux Lames Citoyen (M6+, Cascade du Bourget (WI-4), and Ancrage de Dent (WI-5). There’s always that first-day recalibration, relearning the feel of good placements, the sound of solid ice, and the subtle confidence that returns pitch by pitch. I felt more at ease than this time last year, my body less tense and rigid, a more fluid confidence returning as I remembered the movement and felt the gripping of my mind relax.

The next day, we ventured deeper into the more remote valley of Freissinières for bigger, more committing lines. Our original objective, Geronimo, was quickly ruled out due to poor ice conditions, a reminder that winter climbing demands lots more flexibility. Instead, we embraced the change of plan and enjoyed a brilliant ascent of Happy Together (WI-4) followed by Ice Pocalypse (WI-4+, 100m). The climbing was engaging and varied, and we were very happy to be on our side of the valley, safely removed from the steady rumble of avalanches pouring down the opposite slopes.

Next stop was Ceillac, home to the spectacular canyon icefall of Les Formes du Chaos (WI-4, 220m). The route felt wilder than its grade might suggest. Rising temperatures had left the ice thinning and steepening through the middle section, demanding careful movement and precise tool placements. I even squeezed in my first ice knee bar! We topped out just in time to fit in Sombre Héros (WI-5) before dark, tired, satisfied, and buzzing from a great day out.

After a rest day, we headed over to Les Orres to climb Dancing Fall (5+, 100m), a striking ‘cigar’ pillar hanging high in the valley. By now, the ice throughout the region was noticeably wetter, but still surprisingly solid. Our axes sank in with a satisfying thunk, biting like superglue and felt quite reassuring despite the water dripping down the icicles above. But with rising temperatures in the week to come, we might be left waiting for another cold snap before the ice is back in good condition.

Ski touring added another layer to the trip. Snow conditions across the Alps and particularly in France have been complex this season — incredible powder paired with a persistently high avalanche forecast. After a few years away from skis, it’s been both humbling and rewarding to return to “winter mode”: assessing snowpack structure, watching aspects and slope angles, and constantly weighing terrain choices.

We kept our plans fluid, opting for lower-angled terrain where we could enjoy the deep, fluffy snow without pushing the risk too far. It feels important to have partners who are open to discussing every observation, any change in the snow pack, and any sign of instability. It’s that shared decision-making process that feels as integral to the adventure as the climbing itself.

Winter in the Écrins has been very rewarding so far, delivering beauty, challenge, and the quiet reminder that flexibility and respect are as essential as strength and skill.