Everest 1975: 50 Years Since Everest the Hard Way
In 1975, the British Everest expedition broke new ground to the summit, making the first ascent of the South West Face. It was the first time any of Everest’s vast faces had been climbed successfully, a defining moment in mountaineering history and a milestone for Mountain Equipment. This September marks 50 years since Everest the Hard Way.
Crafting Gear for the Greater Ranges
By the early 1970s, Mountain Equipment was already a trusted name on the world’s most significant climbs. Founded in 1961 by Pete Hutchinson, the company had grown by designing specialist clothing and sleeping bags for climbers pushing ever higher in the Alps and the Himalaya. Each expedition brought back feedback that further refined the kit, ensuring it met the specific demands of the mountains.
For the 1975 British Everest expedition, we supplied bespoke down suits, sleeping bags, and insulated clothing — equipment tailored to each climber and Sherpa.
"All the suits were made to measure by Mountain Equipment, who were responsible for all the down gear on the expedition and are arguably the best down equipment manufacturers in the world." - Dave Clarke, Expedition Equipment Officer
Image: Porters in the Western Cwm, photo by Jim Duff
The Team and The Road to the Southwest Face
Led by Chris Bonington, the 1975 British Everest team was an all-star cast of British mountaineers. It included well-established names like Doug Scott, Dougal Haston, and Mick Burke, who climbed alongside a younger generation, including Pete Boardman, then just 24 but already highly experienced.
Several previous expeditions targeted Everest's South West face, including Bonnington's in 1972 and an International Expedition in 1971, where Dougal Haston and Don Whillans reached 8350m. By 1975, many team members had experience on the face, although Whillans, a key figure of the era, was controversially excluded. The team brought diverse experience, from challenging ascents in the European Alps to big walls in Patagonia and Baffin, as well as high-altitude climbs in the Himalayas.
The first ascent of Annapurna's South Face in 1970, led by Bonington, was key for preparing for Everest’s South West Face. This challenging expedition involved complex logistics and diverse personalities. Mountain Equipment provided crucial gear, incorporating team feedback. While Whillans and Haston summited, tragedy struck with Ian Clough's death, highlighting the era's dangers.
The Gear
Amongst the kit Mountain Equipment supplied to the team’s climbers, and their vital Nepali Sherpas, were:
- 22 One Piece Down Suits
- 45 Snowline Down Jackets
- 45 Snowline Down Pants
- 60 Everest Sleeping Bags
- 60 Lightline Down Sleeping Bags
- 35 Snowline Down Sleeping Bags
- 60 Down Socks
Similar to our Redline, Iceline, and Snowline bags today, the sleeping bags were slightly oversized to accommodate down clothing when needed. However, in 1975, they were considered too warm for that, even at camps 5 and 6!
The Ascent
After weeks of fixing ropes, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston were ready to attempt the Everest summit from their small tent. They climbed in a lighter style, reminiscent of their experiences in the Alps. Leaving at 3:30 am, they reached the summit by 6:00 pm, facing tough terrain, altitude, and issues with Haston’s oxygen set. Their summit photos show their joy, but the setting sun revealed the seriousness of their situation.
Image: Dougal Haston on the summit of Everest in 1975, photo by Doug Scott
Reaching the South Summit by nightfall, they faced the highest bivouac in history without sleeping bags and having run out of oxygen. Haston wore a one-piece down suit, while Scott opted for mid-layers and a windproof suit. To stay warm in -50 °C temperatures, they shared warmth with Scott's feet inside Haston's suit, fearing they wouldn’t wake if they slept.
The following day, Boardman and Pertemba also made it to the summit, following in the footsteps of Scott and Haston. As they descended, they found Mick Burke still ascending and determined to continue and film at the summit. They descended without him, and whilst it is assumed Burke made it to the top, he was not seen again.
Image: Doug Scott on the summit of Everest in 1975, photo by Dougal Haston
The Legacy
Climbing styles and attitudes have changed immensely in the intervening 50 years, and Mountain Equipment kit has changed with it. Reinhold Messner used ME down gear during the first ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen in 1978, and with that ascent, continued the slow evolution towards climbing in lighter, alpine style on the world’s highest and most difficult mountains.
There are echoes of the 1975 Everest kit still in our range today, both in sleeping bag names and the design philosophy we’ve always followed to allow mountaineers to push higher and harder. Times change, but the spirit of the 1975 team and its climbers continues.
Image: Doug Scott (right) and Dougal Haston (left) at Camp 6, photo from Chris Bonington Photo Library
Main image: Dougal Haston on the Hilary Step, 1975, photo by Doug Scott
